View full sizeBrowned panko crumbs give a fillet of striped bass a crunchy textural contrast to the supple richness of the miso and shiitake mushroom broth.Miso paste is something a lot of home cooks pick up to make revitalizing soup to fight off wintertime colds. But once they've used a tablespoon or two to enrich steamy broth, they aren't sure what to do with the rest. So the tub of miso migrates to the back of the refrigerator shelf, abandoned alongside other forgotten single-use ingredients (hello, harissa and chimichurri sauce).
But miso -- a fermented paste of soybeans, salt and grain (usually rice or barley) -- is good for much more than just soup, and it comes in different flavors and textures. It has so many beneficial qualities, such as aiding digestion and helping the body flush out toxins, that it's a shame to leave it a culinary orphan, losing flavor the longer it sits around.
Recipes included with this story: Ginger-Miso Striped Bass in Shiitake Mushroom Broth; Sesame, Snow Pea and Soba Noodle Salad; Miso-Sake Glazed Salmon; Miso Soup With Tofu and Vegetables; Miso-Creamed Kale.
View full sizeVarieties of miso.Miso ranges from mild and slightly sweet white miso that ferments for just a few months, to dark-red varieties that percolate for as long as three years, giving them an intense, savory quality. The lighter misos adapt well to dressings and sauces, where they add subtle, salty nuance, while the stronger flavors are bold enough to stand up to grilled meat and fish.
Portland's Jorinji Miso produces a full range of small-batch artisan pastes. Owners Earnest and Sumiko Migaki ferment and package their handmade misos in their home kitchen and basement and distribute them to a small number of Asian markets and specialty grocers. Unlike some commercial brands, Jorinji Miso isn't pasteurized, is made without preservatives, and is coarsely processed, giving each paste more texture than bigger miso brands. They also make varieties out of lima beans and chickpeas for people with soy allergies, as well as a variety that blends in flakes of dried bonito fish that can be eaten just as it is.
"People use it as a condiment on rice, and not as part of a soup itself," Earnest says.
The Migakis took their first steps into the miso world when they got married in 1994 and wanted to give reception guests gifts of red and white miso, lucky colors in Japan. When they moved from Japan to Portland that year, they started making miso in their home because they didn't like the commercial brands available here.
"We were making it for ourselves, and then we gave some to family and friends," Earnest says. "They liked it quite a bit and said they wanted to buy it."
They began selling Jorinji Miso in 1996, and demand has grown steadily through the years. The couple are working on financing to expand the business soon, moving it out of their home and into an industrial space that can accommodate larger fermentation equipment.
The Migakis saw demand spike last spring after the earthquake and tsunami in Japan, which caused a series of meltdowns at the Fukushima Dai-ichi nuclear plant. Because miso is reputed to help combat the effects of radiation exposure, groceries up and down the West Coast saw their miso shelves stripped bare.
"After March 11, customers were hoarding miso," Sumiko says. "Everyone was worried about radiation when they saw the news, and we sold out of miso."
Because new batches of miso take months to ferment, they had to cut back on the number of stores they were distributing just to keep it in stock.
Although there's been no clear science proving that miso fights radiation sickness, there's no denying it can be delicious in the right recipes. At
restaurant, chef Trent Pierce uses it to give umami to creamed kale and mushrooms -- so rich it could be a steakhouse side dish. It also adds depth to recipes for striped bass and salmon that we love from Barbara Fairchild and Sally Schneider. For a lean approach, Eating Well's soba noodle salad incorporates a lean dressing where miso does a nice little dance with fresh ginger.
And there's always miso soup, the dish that introduces most cooks to the paste. Martha Rose Shulman's version has more vegetables than your typical miso soup, including spinach, which is rich in antioxidants, boosting the soup's restorative power. And you can add even more veggies to make it hearty enough for dinner. Just round it out with a green salad.
Tossed with a miso-based salad dressing, of course.
Miso: the superfood you may never have heard of
Maybe you've never heard of miso, or you've been unsure what to do with it so you've never picked up a tub. But you really ought to try it because it's one of the world's superfoods.
Miso is a paste that's made out of fermented soybeans that have been blended with salt and a grain (typically rice or barley). It has been a staple of Asian cuisine for more than 1,000 years but has become common in American markets only in the last decade. It comes in a range of flavors, from milder, slightly sweet white and yellow varieties, to more intense and savory red and brown pastes. It also can be made out of chickpeas or lima beans for people with soy allergies.
Miso has a warming quality, which is why miso soup feels so restorative when fighting a cold. It also is a reputed anticarcinogen, and many homeopaths believe it can help reduce the effects of radiation and other environmental toxins. And, like other fermented foods, it can help aid digestion.
Buying:
Miso paste can be found in the refrigerated section of most well-stocked grocery stores, though Asian markets carry the widest variety. Traditional, naturally fermented miso has been aged between 18 months and three years, and can cost anywhere between $10 and $20 a pound (though it can be purchased in smaller amounts).
Less-expensive varieties may use chemically induced fermentation and may not have strong flavor. Some stores sell freeze-dried instant miso, but it doesn't have the active cultures and medicinal benefits of traditional miso.
Portland's Jorinji Miso produces a full line of pastes, using all organic ingredients, no preservatives, and without pasteurization, which destroys some of miso's beneficial qualities. It can be found at Uwajimaya, Hiroshi's Anzen, Alberta Co-op, People's Food Co-op, Food Front Co-op, Sheridan Fruit Co., Market of Choice (West Linn), and Stone Cottage Herbs.
Storing:
Miso should be kept in the refrigerator in an airtight container, with some plastic wrap pressed onto the surface of any unused portion to reduce exposure to air, which can dry the paste out. Ideally, it should be used within 18 months, after which flavors may soften and dull. It should be discarded if it has not been properly refrigerated or if mold starts to form on its surface.
Using:
Miso paste is most commonly added to broth-based soups or as an ingredient in glazes for fish, but can be used in place of soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce or salt in recipes. Just add it at the end of the cooking process, since long exposure to heat destroys miso's beneficial enzymes and cultures.
Other ideas for using miso:
- Make a vinaigrette salad dressing or marinade, add 1 tablespoon of miso to 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons of sesame oil and 1/2 teaspoon each minced fresh ginger and garlic.
- Make a marinade for grilled beef by mixing 2 parts miso, 1 part plain yogurt with a little bit of garlic.
- Add 1/4 cup miso to 1/4 cup softened butter or margarine (1 stick) and 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder to create a seasoned butter for use on steamed vegetables, crusty artisan bread, baked potatoes or tossed with warm pasta.
- Add a dollop to the cream sauce of your favorite macaroni and cheese recipe.
- Use in place of salt to season a hearty gravy.
- Use 1 tablespoon of miso and 1 tablespoon of dried onions in any dip recipe that calls for instant onion soup mix.
- Mix 1 teaspoon of miso with 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise to give sandwiches an Asian twist.
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